The first week with a Labrador puppy is one of those experiences that’s simultaneously wonderful and completely overwhelming. You’ve brought home this waggy, curious, sharp-toothed bundle — and suddenly you need to know where they sleep, what they eat, when they go outside, and how to stop them chewing the chair leg, all at the same time. If you’re still choosing your puppy, start with our guide on how to choose a Labrador puppy from a litter.
The good news: most of the chaos of the first week comes from uncertainty, not from the puppy being difficult. Get the setup right before they arrive and the first week becomes much more manageable. Here’s what you actually need.
Before they arrive: puppy-proof the house
Labs are curious, low to the ground, and have no concept of what’s dangerous. Before your puppy comes home, get down to floor level and look at what’s accessible:
- Electrical cables — secure or cover anything within reach
- Toxic plants — lilies, tulip bulbs, and many common houseplants are dangerous to dogs
- Small objects that could be swallowed — Labs will eat things that would surprise you
- Cleaning products, medications, and anything in low cupboards
- Shoes, socks, and children’s toys left on the floor — anything left out will be chewed
Decide which rooms your puppy will have access to and install baby gates before they arrive. Starting with limited access and expanding it gradually is far easier than trying to restrict it after they’ve already explored everywhere.
The kit you genuinely need (and what you don’t)
Essential
- Crate with divider: Sized appropriately — snug enough to discourage toileting in a corner. A divider lets you expand it as they grow rather than buying multiple crates.
- Collar and ID tag: Required by law in the UK from 8 weeks. Get a lightweight puppy collar — it should be snug but you should fit two fingers underneath.
- Short lead (4–6 feet): For toilet trips and early training. Not retractable — those teach puppies that pulling extends their range.
- Food and water bowls: Heavy enough that they won’t slide or tip. Stainless steel is more hygienic than plastic long-term.
- Puppy food: Whatever the breeder has been feeding — get a bag of the same and transition slowly to any new food over 7–10 days to avoid stomach upset.
- Enzyme cleaner: You will need this in the first week. Standard cleaners don’t break down the urine scent that draws puppies back to the same spot.
- Soft bedding: For inside the crate. Old towels or a washable fleece work fine — anything you’re not precious about, because accidents happen.
Useful but not urgent
- Puppy playpen — useful for containing them safely when you can’t supervise
- Treat pouch — for training, which should start from day one
- Kongs — start using from the first week; stuffed and frozen Kongs are one of the most useful puppy tools there is
- Chew toys in different textures — rotate them to maintain interest
What you don’t need yet
Dog coats, grooming tables, elaborate toy collections, or a harness before they’ve learned to walk on a lead. Buy what you need for the first month and assess from there.
The first 24 hours: keep it calm
Resist the urge to invite everyone over to meet the puppy in the first day or two. Your Lab has just been separated from their mother and littermates — everything is new and potentially overwhelming. A calm, quiet first 24 hours gives them a chance to start adjusting before stimulation is layered on top.
Show them where they sleep, where they eat, and where they toilet. Keep those three things consistent from the very first day. Routine is the fastest way to help a puppy feel safe in a new environment.
The first week routine: simple and consistent
| What | How often | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Toilet trips outside | Every 30–60 mins + after sleeping, eating, playing | Same spot every time, reward immediately when they go |
| Meals | 3–4 times daily at regular times | Follow breeder’s quantities initially |
| Crate rest | After every period of activity | Puppies need 16–18 hours of sleep — enforce it |
| Training | 2–3 x 5-minute sessions daily | Sit, name recognition, basic recall — keep it positive |
| Handling practice | Daily | Touch paws, ears, mouth — pair everything with treats |
My take: structure is kindness in the first week
The owners who find the first week hardest are usually the ones who let the puppy set the pace — following them around, picking them up when they whine, letting them sleep wherever they fall. It feels kind. It actually produces a more anxious puppy who hasn’t learned that their human sets the routine.
A puppy who knows when they eat, sleep, and toilet — and has a calm, consistent human holding that structure — settles faster than one who’s overwhelmed by freedom and uncertainty. Start the routine on day one, even when it’s inconvenient, and the second week will be noticeably easier than the first.
People also ask about the first week with a Labrador puppy
Should I let my Lab puppy sleep wherever they want in the first week?
No — decide where they’ll sleep long-term and start there from night one. Moving a puppy from your bed to a crate at three months is much harder than crate training from day one. The first night is difficult regardless; consistency makes each subsequent night better.
How much should a Lab puppy sleep in the first week?
Up to 16–18 hours a day — much more than most people expect. Short bursts of activity followed by sleep is the normal pattern. Don’t try to keep them awake for longer play sessions — an overtired puppy becomes a bitey, difficult-to-manage puppy very quickly.
When should I start training my Lab puppy?
From day one — in a very gentle, low-pressure way. Labs are capable of learning sit, their name, and basic recall from 8 weeks. Short 3–5 minute sessions with high-value treats are all you need. Early training isn’t about commands; it’s about establishing that working with you is fun and rewarding.
My Lab puppy cried all night — is this normal?
Yes, the first night or two is often rough. Your puppy has just lost the warmth and company of their littermates. A covered crate with your scent inside, positioned in or near your bedroom, reduces but doesn’t always eliminate first-night crying. Most puppies settle significantly by night three or four with consistent responses to their signals.
“, “rendered”: ”The first week with a Labrador puppy is one of those experiences that’s simultaneously wonderful and completely overwhelming. You’ve brought home this waggy, curious, sharp-toothed bundle — and suddenly you need to know where they sleep, what they eat, when they go outside, and how to stop them chewing the chair leg, all at the same time.
The good news: most of the chaos of the first week comes from uncertainty, not from the puppy being difficult. Get the setup right before they arrive and the first week becomes much more manageable. Here’s what you actually need.
Before they arrive: puppy-proof the house
Labs are curious, low to the ground, and have no concept of what’s dangerous. Before your puppy comes home, get down to floor level and look at what’s accessible:
- Electrical cables — secure or cover anything within reach
- Toxic plants — lilies, tulip bulbs, and many common houseplants are dangerous to dogs
- Small objects that could be swallowed — Labs will eat things that would surprise you
- Cleaning products, medications, and anything in low cupboards
- Shoes, socks, and children’s toys left on the floor — anything left out will be chewed
Decide which rooms your puppy will have access to and install baby gates before they arrive. Starting with limited access and expanding it gradually is far easier than trying to restrict it after they’ve already explored everywhere.
The kit you genuinely need (and what you don’t)
Essential
- Crate with divider: Sized appropriately — snug enough to discourage toileting in a corner. A divider lets you expand it as they grow rather than buying multiple crates.
- Collar and ID tag: Required by law in the UK from 8 weeks. Get a lightweight puppy collar — it should be snug but you should fit two fingers underneath.
- Short lead (4–6 feet): For toilet trips and early training. Not retractable — those teach puppies that pulling extends their range.
- Food and water bowls: Heavy enough that they won’t slide or tip. Stainless steel is more hygienic than plastic long-term.
- Puppy food: Whatever the breeder has been feeding — get a bag of the same and transition slowly to any new food over 7–10 days to avoid stomach upset.
- Enzyme cleaner: You will need this in the first week. Standard cleaners don’t break down the urine scent that draws puppies back to the same spot.
- Soft bedding: For inside the crate. Old towels or a washable fleece work fine — anything you’re not precious about, because accidents happen.
Useful but not urgent
- Puppy playpen — useful for containing them safely when you can’t supervise
- Treat pouch — for training, which should start from day one
- Kongs — start using from the first week; stuffed and frozen Kongs are one of the most useful puppy tools there is
- Chew toys in different textures — rotate them to maintain interest
What you don’t need yet
Dog coats, grooming tables, elaborate toy collections, or a harness before they’ve learned to walk on a lead. Buy what you need for the first month and assess from there.
The first 24 hours: keep it calm
Resist the urge to invite everyone over to meet the puppy in the first day or two. Your Lab has just been separated from their mother and littermates — everything is new and potentially overwhelming. A calm, quiet first 24 hours gives them a chance to start adjusting before stimulation is layered on top.
Show them where they sleep, where they eat, and where they toilet. Keep those three things consistent from the very first day. Routine is the fastest way to help a puppy feel safe in a new environment.
The first week routine: simple and consistent
| What | How often | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Toilet trips outside | Every 30–60 mins + after sleeping, eating, playing | Same spot every time, reward immediately when they go |
| Meals | 3–4 times daily at regular times | Follow breeder’s quantities initially |
| Crate rest | After every period of activity | Puppies need 16–18 hours of sleep — enforce it |
| Training | 2–3 x 5-minute sessions daily | Sit, name recognition, basic recall — keep it positive |
| Handling practice | Daily | Touch paws, ears, mouth — pair everything with treats |
My take: structure is kindness in the first week
The owners who find the first week hardest are usually the ones who let the puppy set the pace — following them around, picking them up when they whine, letting them sleep wherever they fall. It feels kind. It actually produces a more anxious puppy who hasn’t learned that their human sets the routine.
A puppy who knows when they eat, sleep, and toilet — and has a calm, consistent human holding that structure — settles faster than one who’s overwhelmed by freedom and uncertainty. Start the routine on day one, even when it’s inconvenient, and the second week will be noticeably easier than the first.
People also ask about the first week with a Labrador puppy
Should I let my Lab puppy sleep wherever they want in the first week?
No — decide where they’ll sleep long-term and start there from night one. Moving a puppy from your bed to a crate at three months is much harder than crate training from day one. The first night is difficult regardless; consistency makes each subsequent night better.
How much should a Lab puppy sleep in the first week?
Up to 16–18 hours a day — much more than most people expect. Short bursts of activity followed by sleep is the normal pattern. Don’t try to keep them awake for longer play sessions — an overtired puppy becomes a bitey, difficult-to-manage puppy very quickly.
When should I start training my Lab puppy?
From day one — in a very gentle, low-pressure way. Labs are capable of learning sit, their name, and basic recall from 8 weeks. Short 3–5 minute sessions with high-value treats are all you need. Early training isn’t about commands; it’s about establishing that working with you is fun and rewarding.
My Lab puppy cried all night — is this normal?
Yes, the first night or two is often rough. Your puppy has just lost the warmth and company of their littermates. A covered crate with your scent inside, positioned in or near your bedroom, reduces but doesn’t always eliminate first-night crying. Most puppies settle significantly by night three or four with consistent responses to their signals.
A structured Labrador puppy daily schedule makes the first week far less overwhelming — and crate training starts from night one.
My Take on First Week with a Lab Puppy
The first week is genuinely overwhelming for most new Lab owners, and I think that’s partly because the puppy looks so manageable at 8 weeks. They’re small, they sleep a lot, and they seem easy. Then the teeth come out, the night crying starts, and the toilet accidents accumulate, and it suddenly feels like a lot. The single most useful thing I can say: lower your expectations for week one and just focus on building good habits with the crate, the routine, and the toilet training. The dog doesn’t need to be trained yet — they need to feel safe and understand the structure.
FAQ
Should I let my Lab puppy roam the house in the first week?
No. Start with a small, supervised area and expand access gradually as the puppy earns it through reliable toilet behaviour and safe behaviour around the home. Free roaming too soon leads to accidents, chewing damage, and habits that are harder to change later.
How much should an 8-week-old Lab puppy sleep?
Around 15–20 hours per day. Puppies need a lot of sleep for healthy development. Many owners underestimate this and keep their puppy stimulated when they need to rest, which contributes to overtiredness and biting.
When should I start training my Lab puppy?
From day one — but keep it very simple and very short. Name recognition, basic sit, and recall can all start in the first week through short, positive interactions. The first week isn’t too early; the sessions just need to be 1–2 minutes and mostly based on games.