Labrador puppy teething starts at around three weeks old and is finished by roughly seven months, when all 42 adult teeth are in. The worst of it, for most Lab owners, lands between four and six months: the baby teeth are falling out, the big adult canines and molars are pushing through, and your puppy now has the jaw strength to do real damage to a chair leg. If you’re in that stretch right now, it does end, and there’s a lot you can do to make it easier on both of you.
Last updated: October 2026
Most Lab owners learn about teething the hard way, usually when a puppy decides at around four and a half months that the bottom stair is the most satisfying thing in the house. Little dents in the wood, then a pink smear of blood on the carpet beside it, then, a couple of days later, a tiny hollow canine tooth in the water bowl. That is what sent me off to read everything I could find and, more usefully, to ask a vet a lot of questions. A quick note before going further: I’m an experienced Lab owner, not a vet, and nothing here is a diagnosis. If something about your puppy’s mouth worries you, your vet is the right person to look.
The Labrador puppy teething timeline, week by week
Every puppy runs on a slightly different clock, and big-boned Labs can be a couple of weeks either side of these ranges. Use this as a map rather than a deadline.
| Age | What’s happening in the mouth | What you’ll notice | What helps most |
|---|---|---|---|
| 3–4 weeks | Baby (deciduous) teeth start erupting | Usually still with the breeder — gums may look puffy | Nothing needed from you yet |
| 6–8 weeks | Full set of 28 baby teeth present — these are the needle-sharp ones | Pin-prick nips on hands, ankles and sleeves | Soft rubber toys, gentle bite-inhibition practice |
| 12–16 weeks | Baby teeth start falling out as adult incisors push through | Spots of blood on toys, more chewing, occasional tooth on the floor | Frozen flannels, cold carrots, chilled rubber rings |
| 4–6 months | Adult canines and premolars coming in — often the most intense chewing phase | Peak furniture chewing, mouthy play, picky with hard kibble | Frozen stuffed Kongs, bully sticks, a strict chew rotation |
| 5–7 months | Adult molars erupting — 42 adult teeth complete | Chewing settles from “desperate” to “hobby” | Durable, puppy-safe nylon chews and supervised long-lasting chews |
The most difficult teething period for most Lab owners is 4–6 months — the puppy is bigger and stronger than at 8 weeks, the gum discomfort is intense as the larger adult teeth push through, and they’re chewing with real force. This is also when the puppy is adolescent enough to be testing boundaries, which compounds the challenge. If you also feel like your sweet ten-week-old has turned into a land shark, you’re not imagining it; the two things overlap almost exactly.
When do Labradors stop teething?
Most Labradors stop teething at around six to seven months old. By then the last adult molars are through and the itchy, sore-gum chewing fades out. With one of my girls the change was noticeable almost overnight at about 26 weeks: the stair survived, and she went back to carrying her toys around rather than grinding them.
Two things are worth knowing, though. First, “finished teething” doesn’t mean “finished chewing.” Labs are a retrieving breed with a soft, busy mouth, and many keep a strong chewing habit well into adulthood. Second, the adult teeth spend a few more months settling into the jaw after they’ve erupted, which is one reason some puppies have a second, milder burst of chewing somewhere between seven and twelve months. That later chewing is usually about boredom and exploration rather than pain, and it responds to exercise and enrichment more than to frozen toys.
Signs your puppy is teething
- Increased chewing — everything, not just designated chew toys
- Drooling more than usual
- Occasionally you’ll find a baby tooth — they often fall out during play or eating and get swallowed (harmless)
- Slight gum bleeding when chewing — normal during active teething
- Reduced appetite — sore gums make eating less comfortable, particularly with hard kibble
- More intense mouthing and biting
- Rubbing the face along the carpet or pawing at the mouth for a few seconds at a time
What I don’t count as normal teething: a puppy who stops eating altogether for more than a day, a swollen face, a bad smell from the mouth, pus, or a puppy who seems flat and miserable rather than just chewy. Those are reasons to book a vet appointment rather than reach for another frozen toy.
Best chews for Lab puppies by age
The rule I keep coming back to is simple: match the chew to the teeth that are actually in the mouth. Baby teeth are thin and brittle; adult teeth are strong but not yet fully anchored. Something perfect for a nine-month-old can be a bad idea at ten weeks.
8–12 weeks: soft and soothing
Baby teeth are fragile — avoid anything hard at this age. What works well: frozen wet flannels (the cold soothes gum irritation), frozen carrots, rubber puppy teething rings, and soft rope toys. The freezing aspect genuinely helps — cold reduces inflammation and soothes sore tissue. I twist a damp flannel into a knot, freeze it, and only hand it over while I’m sitting with the puppy, because a determined Lab can shred one in minutes.
3–5 months: the transition to harder chews
As adult teeth start coming in, puppies need more substantial chewing. Bully sticks, pizzle chews, and natural dried chews are excellent at this stage — long-lasting, safe to digest, and genuinely satisfying. Frozen Kongs stuffed with wet food or mashed banana give both chewing satisfaction and cold relief. If you use peanut butter, check the label for xylitol every single time you buy a new jar; it’s one of the sweeteners on the ASPCA’s list of foods that are toxic to dogs, and it has started turning up in “reduced sugar” spreads.
5–7 months: the heavy chewing phase
The adult molars are coming in and the puppy is chewing with adult force. Nylon chew toys (Nylabones) in appropriate puppy sizes, large bully sticks, and deer antler alternatives (avoid actual hard antler at this age — they can crack adult teeth). This is also when a frozen Kong becomes one of the most useful tools for managing downtime — they occupy a puppy for 20–30 minutes and give the humans a break.
Size up as your puppy grows. A Lab at six months can be 20kg or more, and a chew that was a sensible size at 12 weeks can now be swallowed in two gulps. If a chew wears down to the point where it fits behind the back teeth, it goes in the bin.
My teething-week freezer drawer
During the worst fortnight I kept one freezer drawer just for the puppy: four knotted flannels, two Kongs stuffed with soaked kibble and plain yoghurt, a bag of thick carrot batons and one rubber teething ring. Rotating them meant there was always something cold ready, and I never had to say “no” to a chewing puppy without immediately offering a “yes” instead.
Chews to avoid
- Real bones: Cooked bones splinter and can perforate the gut. Raw bones are controversial — marrow bones specifically can crack adult teeth in Labs, who chew with significant force
- Hard antler: Can crack adult teeth — the “too hard” rule is simple: if you’d hurt yourself hitting it on your kneecap, it’s too hard for a dog’s teeth
- Rawhide: Can cause choking and digestive blockage if pieces are swallowed — many vets advise against it
- Any chew small enough to swallow whole
- Ice cubes for very young puppies: a crushed ice chip is fine, but a hard cube is a chipped-tooth risk for fragile baby teeth — a frozen flannel does the same job more safely
Retained baby teeth: the one teething problem to check for
Sometimes a baby tooth doesn’t fall out when the adult tooth arrives, and you end up with two teeth crowded into the same spot. It’s most common with the upper canines — look for a thin, sharp baby fang sitting just in front of or beside the thicker adult one. VCA’s guide to persistent baby teeth in dogs explains why this matters: the retained tooth can push the adult tooth out of position and trap food and plaque between them.
I check my puppies’ mouths once a week from about four months, lifting the lip gently while they’re sleepy after a walk. It’s also a good habit for later life; a dog who’s used to having his mouth handled is far easier to examine, medicate and brush. If you spot a double row of teeth that’s still there a couple of weeks later, mention it to your vet. It’s often dealt with when a puppy is under anaesthetic for neutering, but your vet will tell you whether yours can wait.
Managing the increased biting during teething
Teething intensifies puppy biting because the gums are uncomfortable and chewing relieves it. The training approach doesn’t change during teething — consistent bite inhibition work, redirect to appropriate chews, remove attention when biting escalates — but your expectations need to adjust. A puppy in peak teething discomfort at 4–5 months will bite more than they did at 10 weeks even with perfect training. It’s temporary. Stay consistent, provide relief, and it passes. The AKC’s advice on puppy teething and nipping takes the same line: redirect, don’t punish.
Here’s the routine that got my house through it, in the order I do it when the teeth come out:
- Offer a legal chew first. The moment teeth land on skin, sleeves or furniture, a chew goes into the mouth instead. No telling off, just a swap.
- Pause the game if biting escalates. If the puppy goes straight back to hands, I stand up, fold my arms and go quiet for ten seconds. Play only restarts when the mouth is soft.
- Check the clock. Frantic biting in the late afternoon or evening is very often overtiredness rather than teeth. A quiet crate or pen with a frozen chew fixes more “teething” tantrums than any toy.
- Put the tempting stuff away. Shoes, cables, remote controls and wooden furniture legs get blocked off or bitter-sprayed for these few months. Management isn’t failure; it’s how you stop a habit forming while the teeth settle.
- Teach a trade. A solid “drop it” and “leave it” routine pays off enormously when a puppy picks up a sock — or a stone — in the middle of a teething session.
If the mouthing is still strong long after the adult teeth are in, it’s usually become a habit rather than a teething need. My guide to teenage Labrador biting between 6 and 18 months picks up exactly where this one leaves off, and the puppy biting plan that stops nipping without rough play covers the younger stage in more detail.
Feeding a teething Lab puppy
A dip in appetite for a day or two is common when the canines are breaking through. With my puppy it showed up as him picking at breakfast and then wolfing down dinner. If your puppy is leaving food, soak the kibble in warm water for ten minutes so it’s soft, or mix in a spoonful of the wet version of the same food. Don’t change diet completely just because of teething, and keep portions in line with your Labrador puppy feeding chart by age so the extra frozen Kongs don’t quietly add up to an extra meal — subtract their fillings from the daily allowance.
Any puppy refusing food for more than 24 hours, or who seems to be in real pain when chewing, needs a vet check. Teething shouldn’t stop a healthy puppy eating entirely.
People also ask about Lab puppy teething
When does teething end in Labradors?
The active teething phase is essentially complete by 6–7 months when all 42 adult teeth are in. Most puppies improve noticeably from around 5–6 months as the majority of adult teeth are through. Some continued exploratory chewing beyond this is normal Lab behaviour, but the gum discomfort-driven intense chewing of peak teething should be resolved by 7 months.
Is it normal to find my puppy’s baby teeth?
Yes — occasionally you’ll find a small tooth on the floor or in their bedding. More often they’re swallowed during eating or play, which is harmless. If your puppy retains baby teeth alongside the incoming adult teeth (you can see both at the same time), mention it to your vet — retained baby teeth sometimes need extracting to prevent adult teeth growing in the wrong position.
My puppy seems in pain while teething — what can I help?
Cold is the most effective relief: frozen chews, frozen Kongs, frozen wet flannels. These can be offered as often as needed during the worst of the teething phase. Don’t give human pain medication — paracetamol and ibuprofen are toxic to dogs. If your puppy seems in significant distress, not eating, or you’re concerned about any aspect of their teething, a vet check is appropriate.
How many teeth does an adult Labrador have?
Forty-two. Puppies only have 28, so fourteen of the adult teeth — mostly molars — have no baby tooth before them.
Can teething give a Lab puppy diarrhoea or a temperature?
It’s a common belief, but I wouldn’t put either down to teeth. A puppy who’s chewing everything is also swallowing bits of everything, and that’s a more likely cause of a loose stomach. A temperature, vomiting or diarrhoea that lasts more than a day in a young puppy is a reason to call your vet, whatever stage the teeth are at.
Should I start brushing my puppy’s teeth during teething?
Start the handling now, the brushing a little later. While the gums are sore I just lift lips, touch teeth with a finger and reward. Once the adult teeth are settled, around seven months, I introduce a soft brush and dog toothpaste (never human toothpaste). By then the puppy already thinks mouth handling is a treat-dispensing game.
My 8-month-old Lab is still chewing everything. Is he still teething?
Probably not. At eight months the teeth are in; what you’re seeing is a young retriever with energy to burn and a mouth that likes to be busy. More sniffing walks, food puzzles and training sessions usually do more than chew toys at this point.
Teething drives most of the furniture chewing — my guide to stopping a Labrador chewing furniture shows what to do. Teething is a normal developmental stage — put it in context with my guide to normal Labrador puppy behaviour. Chew breaks can be built into the daily routine.